Some Tips

Hi there,
     I've  been neglecting my Blog recently, just very busy but I'll try to get more input made, assuming there are people actually reading my  Blog

Sharpening at the Church Brewing Co. in Wolfville.

     I'll spend a little time writing about some of things that I do that I don't perhaps emphasize in my videos but they do make a difference, do here goes:

    One thing I always, and I mean without fail, make sure that any knife I work on is as sharp as I can possibly get it on the very first stone and if I start at 120 grit, I will do the same with the next stone which may be a 500 or 800 grit. The key for me is to allow my patience and any skill that I have to get that edge nice and sharp, easily slicing telephone book paper and if it is carbon, cutting arm hair.

    One of the tips that I have is something that I have talked about many times. The light trick but I have improved it a little.

Just some chipped Shuns

      Okay the light test. When I have finished on first stone, a 500 Shapton Glass for example which is quite often the first stone I go for. I carefully, and I mean I scrutinize the edge under the light. Now before I just looked for any obvious glints of light reflecting off of metal that I have yet to remove completely.  My goal of course is to see absolutely no light which is an indication of a nice "clean" edge. However, I started moving tilting the knife a little to really inspect the edge under the light to see if there is any parts with even the tiniest bit of light, when there is, it looks like a white line that is resting on the very edge of the edge. It can be difficult to spot but with with practice you can see it. When I do see it, I go back to working both sides of the blade on the same stone until I can't see any light at all.  You'd be surprised how sharp the knife is by this time and this is when I move to a medium grit stone, 1k for example or even 2k sometimes. I would say that this one simple act has been the biggest game changer besides the manipulation of pressure but it's been great.

    The other tip is to monitor pressure and ease up, I have found myself a few times using more pressure than necessary after the burr has been formed. I do not want to form additional burrs but if to much pressure is used that will happen and the knife in fact can get duller as you move up in grit. 

Remember: Burr Forming Pressure is whatever is required to form that burr using the stone you have chosen. After that, once that is accomplished, once the burr has been formed on both sides and is consistent in size you start reducing pressure to remove the burr and enter the Burr Removal Pressure stage which is roughly 50% of the pressure you start with and it keeps going down, less and less pressure to finish it off.

     

    If you are having a tough time getting that edge you want or are used to, just back off for a bit and put the knife down. Some steels are very hard to sharpen, those crappy stainless steel blades that just seem to take an eternity. 

Ask yourself the questions:

Have I formed the burr on both sides, and if not am I using enough pressure?

 Is the angle to low, to acute because if it is, you may not be hitting the edge of the edge. Use a sharpie if necessary to stay on track.

Am I using to much pressure? 

By the time you get to the finishing stone the pressure you use should be feather light, I can't overemphasize this, very very light pressure is all you need at this stone. 

Thats all I have for now but if there are any questions please fire away. I will be back in a week or so with new material.

(Sunset in Florida a couple of weeks ago)

Peter